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Thanksgiving Pork Loin? Why Not?

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Lynn Kessel

Published: November 14, 2007

The most memorable Thanksgiving dish I recall from childhood wasn't my mom's turkey, oyster stuffing, candied yams or pumpkin pie. It was her festive relish tray.

A patchwork of black olives, spiced crabapples, pickled herring — my dad's favorite — small, sweet gherkins and homemade pickled watermelon rind, it was itself a feast.

Those one-bite delights offered a crisp and tangy contrast between nibbles of mashed potatoes and green bean casserole. The relish tray made a lasting impression and, to this day, I find comfort in this family tradition.

With the exception of an occasional capon, my siblings and I could safely predict mom's menu of turkey and fixings for dinner. That's the charm of the holiday — and also the thing that threatens to make it pedestrian.

As my children left home and my guest list got smaller, Thanksgiving became a less formal affair. While still striving to satisfy the traditionalists at my table, I prefer occasionally to stray from a turkey and enjoy scrumptious food requiring little fuss.

This year, I'm choosing a nontraditional pork loin roast as the centerpiece of my Thanksgiving spread.

For me, a roasted pork loin is a worthy stand-in. Unabashedly aromatic, the roast is infused with garlic, sage and rosemary, and it pairs well with any traditional Thanksgiving side dish or seasonal ingredients.

Pork loin is lean, requires minimal preparation, is attractively priced and has proved to be a bona fide hit with my guests. The leftovers make tasty sandwiches, too.

I first made this herb-flavored roast several years ago. The hardest part of the recipe is butterflying the pork loin, which the butcher at my local supermarket happily took care of. He also offered me the kitchen twine needed to hold its shape.

To accompany the pork, it's almost impossible to go wrong with brandied sweet potatoes and wild rice and sausage casserole, both apt trimmings to any Thanksgiving turkey or Christmas ham.

Brandied sweet potatoes are a favorite of mine. Always moist, the potatoes soak up the glossy sweet glaze that has a delightful flavor of cognac. A regular on my Thanksgiving table for at least 20 years, the recipe comes from a New York Times recipe collection dating to 1961. Depending on the number of people I'm entertaining, I usually double the recipe.

Move in a different direction and try this hearty wild rice and sausage casserole instead of stuffing. With its varied textures of mushrooms, water chestnuts, celery, and onion, the dish is a true palate pleaser. The hot sausage adds a little heat, but not overwhelmingly so.

There's no reason to pass one more bowl of those limp, soupy green bean casseroles around the table. The simple pleasure of tender fresh green beans stripped to their essence and splashed with lemon butter complements the meal and frees up space in the oven. Straightforward, it's an easy but elegant side dish.

Enjoy the abundance of the day. It's all about food, family and gratitude. Bon appetit!

Pork Loin With Rosemary And Sage

1 boneless center loin pork roast

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

Fresh sage leaves

Several rosemary sprigs

11/2tablespoons chopped fresh sage

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary

2 cloves minced garlic

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon salt

3/4teaspoon ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. To prepare the filling, combine the sage, parsley, rosemary, garlic, oil, mustard, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Butterfly the pork loin. Spread the filling across the open loin, and then roll it up to encase the filling inside. Using kitchen twine, tie the loin every 1 1/2 inches to hold its shape. Rub the outside of the meat with oil, sprinkle with remaining salt and pepper and place it in a small roasting pan on the center rack in the oven. Roast for about an hour or until your meat thermometer, inserted in the pork loin's center, reaches 155 degrees and until its juices run clear. Let stand for 10 minutes before carving. Slice crosswise and remove the twine before serving. Garnish with fresh sage and rosemary. Serves six.

Wild Rice And Sausage Casserole

16-ounce package hot ground pork sausage

1 cup chopped celery

1 large onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

3 cups chicken broth

1 can low-sodium, low-fat cream of mushroom soup

1 can low-sodium, low-fat cream of chicken soup

1 8 ounce can sliced water chestnuts, drained

2 4 ounce cans sliced mushrooms, drained

1 6 ounce package long-grain and wild rice mix

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 cup sliced almonds

Combine sausage, celery, onion and garlic in a large skillet. Cook over medium heat until sausage is browned and vegetables are tender, stirring until meat crumbles. Drain. Stir in chicken broth and remaining ingredients, except for the almonds. Spoon the mixture into a lightly greased, 3-quart casserole dish and sprinkle almonds on top. Bake uncovered at 350 degrees for 90 minutes. Let stand five minutes before serving. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Brandied Sweet Potatoes

4 medium sweet potatoes

2/3 cup brown sugar, firmly packed

1/4 cup water

2 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup seedless raisins

1/4 cup cognac

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Wash the sweet potatoes but do not peel. Cover with water and boil until barely soft, about 15 minutes. Drain, cool and peel. Slice into a greased casserole dish. Bring the brown sugar, water, butter and raisins to a boil. Add the cognac and pour the mixture over the sweet potatoes. Bake uncovered for 30 minutes, basting several times with the syrup in the casserole. Serves four.

Fresh Green Beans With Lemon Butter

11/2 to 2 pounds fresh green beans

1/2 cup water

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 lemon, juiced

1 lemon, wedged

1 lemon rind, grated

Wash beans and cut off ends. Place in a deep, 2-quart, microwave-safe casserole dish with water. Cover and microwave 10 to 12 minutes or until the beans are al dente, stirring once. As beans are cooking, finely grate the rind from the lemon and set aside. Squeeze the juice from the lemon and set aside. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat, add grated lemon rind and heat briefly. Stir in lemon juice to taste and remove from heat. Drain beans, and then place in a large bowl. Pour lemon butter over the hot beans and toss until coated. Transfer them to a serving platter or bowl. Garnish with lemon wedges. Makes four to six servings.

Lynn Kessel can be reached at lkessel@mac.com or P.O. Box 286, Ruskin FL 33575-0286. Readers are encouraged to send their favorite recipes, comments and suggestions.

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