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Classic Cheese Ball Is A Tasty Way To Serve Up '60s In Style

Photo by LYNN KESSEL

A miniature, dressed-up version of the "classic" cheese ball is made of Gorgonzola and white wine to give it a simple but luxurious flavor. These are ideal for a buffet or cocktail party.

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By LYNN KESSEL

Tribune correspondent

Published: December 17, 2008

I've had an appetite for nostalgia this week.

I've been watching back-to-back episodes of the first season of "Mad Men." For anyone not familiar with the AMC series, it's a throwback to the early 1960s that delves into the lives of sharply suited and carefully coiffed employees of a New York City ad agency.

Never mind its culture of liquid lunches, sexual harassment in the workplace, trophy wives and scenes so clouded with cigarette smoke that at times I'm left feeling the need to shower.

What grabs me about the show is its impeccable attention to the detail of that era.

As you might imagine, I became fascinated by the food. I found myself taking note of everything the characters cooked, ordered and ate.

I was almost part of that generation. In the 1960s, I was a dorky pre-teen - tall and skinny, with brown, horn-rimmed glasses that sat heavily on my nose. And my bangs were kept straight with pink hair tape and Dippity-Do.

For a quick peek back in time, I resurrected some of my old cookbooks, including vintage copies of "Betty Crocker's Picture Cook Book" and "The Fannie Farmer Cookbook." Thumbing through my beloved classics, I thought how amazing it is that these "mom-in-an-apron" cookbooks continue to be useful.

Continuing my obsession with the decade, I also discovered my copies of "The Gallery of Regrettable Food" by James Lileks and "The Old-Time Brand-Name Cookbook" by Bunny Crumpacker.

You won't find any recipes or tasty treats in Lilek's collection. It's a fun look at the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s. This book takes you back to some of the worst food photography and zany food concoctions ever, annotated with the author's acerbic commentary. How does radishes in cherry Jell-O grab you?

If you're really absorbed with going back in food history, check out Crumpacker's book. It covers the period of 1875 to 1945 and includes a nostalgia-rich collection of more than 300 recipes, lively anecdotes and hundreds of original, colorful illustrations.

For the finale episode of "Mad Men," I've decided to prepare exhibit A in retro - the cheese ball. Mine will be a slightly updated version of this "classic." Instead of the standard, large spheres that look like a train wreck after one bite, I'm making tablespoon-sized balls served with crackers and a vodka gimlet.

GORGONZOLA AND WHITE WINE CHEESE BALLS

1 8-ounce package of cream cheese, softened

2 ounces crumbled Gorgonzola cheese

1/4 cup sharp cheddar cheese, shredded

2 tablespoons white wine

2 tablespoons paprika

1/2 cup chopped pistachio nuts or pecans

In a medium bowl, blend cream cheese, Gorgonzola cheese, sharp cheddar cheese and white wine. Form the mixture into tablespoon-size balls. On a piece of wax paper, spread the paprika and chopped nuts. Roll the cheese balls in the mixture to coat. Place on a tray, cover and chill for six hours or overnight. As an option before serving, place the cheese balls in small paper liners.

Lynn Kessel can be reached at lkessel@mac.com or P.O. Box 913, Ruskin FL 33575-0913. For more of her recipes, visit southshore .tbo.com and enter the search words: Table Scraps. Readers are encouraged to send in favorite recipes and suggestions.

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