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Salade Nicoise: Staycation On A Plate

Photo by LYNN KESSEL

Healthier and lighter than its American cousin, the American Cobb, Salad Nicoise is an oasis in the desert of everyday fare. Add a glass or two of wine and some ethereal crepes… and ces’t magnifique!

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The Tampa Tribune

Published: July 15, 2008

I can't imagine anything nicer than taking a break and heading to the south of France - be still my impatient heart.

Dang, I've been waiting decades to languish at outdoor cafes along the sparkling waterfront of the French Riviera. For most of us, though, lavish destination travel is out of the question.

So what's the next best thing?

Last month, I took a short road trip and headed south of Ruskin to Paris Bistrot, a charming new French restaurant on Main Street in Lakewood Ranch.

As we were seated, I immediately noticed the giant wine bottles that accented alcoves lining the warm, polished wood walls. Snippets of casual conversation in French were overheard from nearby diners. The menu was refreshing - quiches, boeuf bourguignon and a playground of crepes. I took a deep breath and imagined I was on holiday in France, after all.

Facing the usual dilemma I have with any French menu, I tried to resist ordering my favorite, Salade Nicoise (pronounced nee-swahz), and flirted with the idea of trying something new. The irresistible, one-dish salad is considered by some to be a cousin of our American Cobb salad, but I find the relationship to be distant.

As usual, I couldn't resist. Throwing in the towel, I told the waiter, "I'll have the Salade Nicoise."

"Oui, good choice," he replied.

Dressed with basic vinaigrette and a pleasant surprise component of rice instead of the usual boiled potatoes, the salad arrived at the table and tasted as fresh and flavorful as it looked. I savored every mouthful.

Salade Nicoise is a conglomerate of neatly arranged patches of canned tuna, tomatoes, green beans, potatoes, hard-boiled eggs and anchovies. Although there are no strict rules, it can be served with tuna that has never seen the inside of a can, artichokes or without lettuce. Healthier and lighter than its American cousin, this summertime salad is an oasis in the desert of everyday fare. Add a glass or two of wine and some ethereal crepes ... and ces't magnifique!

SALADE NICOISE

1/2 pound blanched green beans

3 or 4 quartered tomatoes

3 cups cold, boiled potatoes

2 (3-ounce) cans chunk tuna, drained

3 hard-boiled eggs; cold, peeled and quartered

Canned anchovy filets, drained

2 to 3 tablespoons minced, fresh parsley

Nicoise olives, or black pitted

Large head of green leaf lettuce, washed, dried and torn into large pieces

BASIC VINAIGRETTE

1/4 cup white or red wine vinegar or a mixture of vinegar and lemon juice

3/4 cup olive or vegetable oil

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1/2 teaspoon salt

Place all ingredients in a screw-top jar and shake vigorously for 30 seconds to blend thoroughly.

Lightly steam green beans and then plunge into ice water to cool. Cook potatoes until tender and run under cold water to cool. Just before serving, season the beans and tomatoes with several spoonfuls of vinaigrette. Toss the lettuce leaves in the salad bowl with 1/4 cup of vinaigrette and place the leaves around the edge of a platter. Decorate with the beans, potatoes, tomatoes and tuna interspersing with olives, eggs and anchovies. Pour the remaining dressing over the salad and sprinkle with parsley. I also like to use fresh thyme, dill or basil. Serve immediately.

Serves 6 to 8.

Lynn Kessel can be reached at lkessel@mac.com or P.O. Box 913, Ruskin FL 33575-0286.

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