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Florida Onion Is A Sweet Talker

Photo by LYNN KESSEL

Sea scallops go beautifully with the Florida sweet onion, which adds flavor but does not overpower the delicate taste of the scallops.

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By LYNN KESSEL

Tribune correspondent

Published: May 7, 2008

I've never had a love affair for onions - or a hate affair, for that matter.

For years, heartburn and foul aftertaste had me protesting "no onions, please" on hamburgers, pizza and hot dogs.

That's until I discovered an onion to be reckoned with - the Florida sweet onion.

I included one on my grocery list last week for a new recipe that included sauteed scallops with onions.

While I was shopping at Ruskin's Hydro Harvest Farms, I asked owner John Lawson if he had any onions ready to be picked. He didn't, but being a swell guy, he told me where to find some.

In the spirit of the holiday classic "Miracle on 34th Street, where Macy's sent customers to Gimbels, John sent me down the street to a competitor.

When I walked up to the Artesian Farms stand at U.S. 41 and Shell Point Road, I didn't expect to be handed a nearly 3-pound onion the size of a grapefruit. And as I later discovered at home, it was as sweet as a flirty Southern belle.

At the Dickman family-owned produce stand, I met Darlene Nieves, who has worked for the Dickmans for three seasons. She told me her favorite way to prepare sweet onions is diced with tomatoes and dressed with olive oil, basil and oregano. She also enjoys the mild onion sliced in a sandwich with mayo. Thanks, Darlene; I've added that to my gotta-try list.

Talk about a short romance, though. The Florida sweet onion has a limited growing season that lasts just a few months. Darlene said the Florida gems will most likely be available through mid-June. You can buy these buck-and-a-half beauties at the Shell Point Road stand or at the U-pick tomato field off State Road 674 and 27th Street Southeast, behind the Circle K.

Like any other spring sweet onion, these crunchy treats are high in water and sugar content. They bruise easily, so handle gently and store in a cool, dry place with good air circulation.

Somewhere I have heard storing onions hung in pantyhose can maximize the short shelf life. Mine don't stick around long enough, but if you have a surplus you might want to try this.

Take a pair of washed new or used pantyhose and drop an onion into the foot, tie a knot, drop another onion, tie a knot and so forth. Hang in a closet or pantry. When you need an onion, just snip one off.

Personally, I would have a problem using this method because I haven't worn a pair of pantyhose in 25 years! Whatever.

Once chopped, my mammoth bulb yielded eight cups, which will keep about a week stored in a container in the refrigerator. I only needed a half-cup for my recipe, so I decided to freeze the rest.

Onions can be frozen for three to six months, but their texture changes. So, after freezing, they should be used only for cooking.

To freeze an onion, first dice it and place a single layer on a baking sheet. Once frozen, package the diced onions in plastic freezer bags. This makes it easier to break off pieces as needed.

Here's an easy and delicious recipe I found in one of my favorite cookbooks, "Delicioso! The Regional Cooking of Spain." Simply prepared, these scallops combine beautifully with the sublime Florida onion, which do not overpower the delicate taste of the scallops.

SAUTEED SCALLOPS AND ONIONS

11/2 pounds sea scallops

Kosher or sea salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup minced onion

1/4 cup minced fresh parsley

Few strands of saffron

5 tablespoons dry white wine

Freshly squeezed lemon juice

Sprinkle the scallops with salt. In a skillet, heat the oil to the smoking point. Brown the scallops quickly over a high flame, shaking the pan frequently for about one minute. Remove the scallops to a warm platter. They will cook more later.

Return the skillet to the flame and saute the onion until wilted. Stir in the parsley and saffron, then return the scallops to the pan and add the wine. Cook briefly until the scallops are done, about 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle with lemon juice. Makes 4 servings.

Source: Adapted from "Delicioso! The Regional Cooking of Spain" by Penelope Casas (2001).

Lynn Kessel can be reached at lkessel@mac.com or P.O. Box 286, Ruskin FL 33575-0286. Readers are encouraged to send in their favorite recipes, comments and suggestions.

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