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Acropolis Greek Taverna speaks to the Greek in all of us

Photo by Lynn Kessel

Crisp, green celery provides both texture and aroma to this cinnamon-laced, low-calorie beef dish.

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BY LYNN KESSEL

Tribune columnist

Published: November 5, 2009

My friend Phyllis recently brought me back a small pouch of Greek spices from a friend's restaurant in Colorado. One whiff of the piquant stuff whetted my appetite for Greek food.

So much so that a week later, I walked through the door of Acropolis Greek Taverna at Winthrop Town Center.

The experience of dining at the Acropolis is as much about hospitality and atmosphere as it is the food. As I entered this airy and richly appointed Riverview restaurant, I was immediately taken by the charm and friendliness of its staff, and by manager Carlos Issak, who greeted me like Mama in "My Big Fat Greek Wedding."

My dinner partner and I first ordered appetizers. I thoroughly enjoyed the crowd-pleasing saganaki or flaming cheese and the melitzanosalata, a thick-and-creamy, fresh eggplant spread topped with sesame seed sauce, lemon and olive oil. Scooping them both up with warm triangles of pita, I felt the introduction was wonderful.

Moving on to entrees, my friend ordered one of the specials — shrimp saganaki, sans the flames, over pasta. Full of luscious shrimp, tomatoes, feta cheese and parsley, the dish was 5-star, she said.

My choice was the chicken Rhodes, a tender, deliciously moist chicken breast sautéed in lemon sauce, served with artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes, olives and topped with crumbled cheese. The entrée was accompanied by roasted vegetables and orzo. My taste buds rejoiced.

As we dined, we were also entertained by servers tossing small napkins into the air like confetti before dancing throughout the dining room, shouting "opa!" Issak got into the act as well by breaking a stack of plates. He told me on Friday and Saturday evenings, diners also watch belly dancers perform.

At Acropolis, you can dine outdoors, too. Roomy sidewalks lined with distinctive lamp posts and a graceful fountain flank the taverna's entrance. It's a great place to gather with friends on a cool, fall evening, as a thick, sweet cloud of hookah smoke hangs in the air.

Be sure to bring an appetite, because the Acropolis servings are generous. Many of its dishes, including the appetizers and dips, invite sharing. Adding a glass of Acropolis' reasonably priced sangria makes a fine repast for a convivial group.

The Acropolis has three locations: 6108 Winthrop Town Center Ave. in Riverview; 1833 E. Seventh Ave. in Ybor City; and 14947 Bruce B. Downs Blvd. in New Tampa.

This week's recipe is one I have been making for at least two decades. I like it for its low-calorie use of celery, which gives it texture and aroma.

This weekend I'll be at the Ruskin Seafood Festival fishing for recipes. I'll be giving away a catered meal for two at your home to one lucky reader who shares a favorite family fish recipe. So stop by my booth to say hello and bring that recipe with you. I just might be coming to visit.

Lynn Kessel can be reached at lkessel@mac.com. For more of her recipes, visit southshore.tbo.com and enter the search words Lynn Kessel or look for her blog at www.lynnkessel.blogspot
.com.

GREEK CELERY AND BEEF BAKE

6 cups celery, thinly sliced

31/2 tablespoons oil, divided

11/2 pounds ground beef

1/2 cup onion, chopped

1 8-ounce can tomato sauce

11/2 teaspoons salt, divided

1 teaspoon oregano leaves, crumbled

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper, divided

11/2 tablespoons flour

11/2 cups milk

2 eggs, lightly beaten

Parmesan cheese, grated (optional)

In a large skillet, sauté celery in 1 tablespoon oil for 3 minutes. Spoon half of celery into the bottom of a 12-by-8-by-2-inch casserole dish; set aside. In the same skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil. Add beef and onion, and then sauté for 5 minutes. Stir in tomato sauce, 1 teaspoon salt, oregano, cinnamon and 1/8 teaspoon black pepper.

Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes. In a medium saucepan melt the remaining 11/2 tablespoons oil. Blend in flour; cook and stir 1 minute. Stir in milk, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon black pepper.

Cook and stir over moderate heat until mixture boils and thickens. Mix some of the hot sauce with the beaten eggs; return all to saucepan. Heat over low heat for one minute; do not boil.

Remove from heat and set aside. Spoon the beef mixture over layer of celery in casserole and then spoon remaining celery around the outer edge of casserole. Pour cream sauce over all. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, if desired. Bake, uncovered, in a 325 degree oven for 30 minutes. Cover lightly with foil and bake 15 minutes longer. Serves 6 to 8.

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